THE AMAZING FANCY FEET CLASS

Not More Shoes – More Feet!

This month the fabulous Thrilling Threads Ladies helped me work through a class on how to use sewing machine feet. We made a wall hanging which exhibited many of our machines’ utility stitches as well as decorative stitches quilters seldom use. The goal of having a “Foot” class for quilters was twofold: (1) it demonstrated many of the clever feet that could be used for various quilting needs; and (2) many of the stitches which have wonderful and exciting effects for quilts, we never consider using. When these two elements were brought together with many FABULOUS SUPERIOR THREADS, the effects added to quilts and other sewing projects were endless! The ladies left thinking about how they would use all the various feet, stitches and THREAD for their next project.

Sew, what were the winners after two full classes on feet? I am going to list all the feet used on a special page entitled FANCY FEET. Here are a few of the highlights:

• ·        The humble Standard Foot (especially if it has that little black button) is actually an amazing “go-to” foot for quilters. It has a wide footprint which helps hold a wide area of fabric down against the feed dogs. The button (if you are lucky enough to have one), can hold the foot ridged and flat for use going over fat, raised seams. It also has a fairly deep tunnel to allow a fat seam to travel easily beneath the foot. The Standard Foot (A-Foot for many), is one of the best feet to use for many decorative stitches because we now have such versatility using needle positions. Our quilters discovered that re-visiting this often-neglected standard foot offered some great uses for quilters. One other added benefit to the standard foot would be to check and see if it or the ankle has that little hole in the back allowing one of those quilting bars often coming with walking feet to be attached. This expands the use of the standard foot to allow for even placement of decorative or regular stitches in quilting.

• ·         In comparison, using the Open Toe Foot (which is a foot commonly used for decorative stitches) is NOT THE BEST selection for decorative stitches. While the open toe foot provides great visibility, it actually does not press down on the feed dogs as firmly as the standard foot. This information means consideration for the type of stitch to be used on specific fabric thicknesses combined with the type or weight of thread used. There will be occasions to go to the open toe foot on a thick quilt, but not necessarily on a single, or thin piece of applique. While the “tunnel” beneath the foot is decent, the foot itself may not provide enough pressure against feed dogs to allow control of movement. What is a great foot to go to for applique? Find out if your machine company makes a specialty “Applique” foot. That foot has a deep tunnel to allow thick thread to travel easily beneath it, is clear plastic for easy visibility, and is incredibly “stubby.” Yes, stubby is great! This allows the foot to negotiate curves and corners much easier than the typical open toe foot we all thought was an applique foot!

• ·         THREAD. The right thread for the right stitches makes all the difference. Most quilters are so set in their ways, they just pick up the thread they are using at the time to use specialty or decorative stitches. Often the stitch may look skimpy, not filled in correctly, or over-filled. Thread makes the difference and sewers need To remember when selecting thread that it is ALL ABOUT THE PROJECT, or “stitch” in this instance. Specifically, if using a beautiful, artsy stitch with a lot of flowers or detail, don’t use a thick thread. A thick thread won’t make all the delicate turns as sharp as the sewer would like. On the other hand, if sewing a simpler design perhaps with filled-in effects, using a thicker thread will ensure filled-in elements are in fact, filled-in completely.

•  Using the right thread was also most apparent when using the “Hand-Look” stitches. These stitches are the triple-stitch, saddle stitch, and perhaps more, depending on the machine. These stitches work well when tension is tightened and a fat, thick thread is used in the bobbin (such as So Fine #40ä, or another SUPERIOR #40 thread). Using a strong polyester monofilament like MonoPolyä through the needle to “draw-up” the bobbin thread to the top of the project completes a perfect hand-look effect.  Also remember to think about what effect shiny or matte thread would play on the project.
  Just think about it. For years quilters and sewers just picked up the thread they were using last, or the most convenient spool or color of thread without giving a bit of notice to the type or weight of thread. STOP DOING THAT! 
  
  
  Think about the project, which foot would be the best (or which foot could do it better?) and which thread is going to provide the best effect. With all the threads rolling around in most quilters’ drawers, settling for skinny, dull, unappealing stitches is no longer necessary. 

•  STABILIZER. The very last thing we all discovered was using stabilizer for quilting projects. No one gives a thought to "stabilizer," because many believe stabilizer is for garments and embroidery. There are so many times that using a sheer, all-purpose PELLON® will change irregular stitches, eyelets, satin stitches, and decorative stitches into perfect works of art! Quilters have forgotten that mystery element we all used when we learned to sew. It doesn't take much, just the right kind of stabilizer placed in the right spot to support those beautiful thread works of art. ALWAYS keep plain old PELLON in your stash for emergencies when no matter what you do; the right foot, the right thread, and the stitch is still miserable, a little PELLON®  goes a long way to fix lumpy, bumpy stitches! Personally, I make sure I always have Pellon® 910 Sew-in Featherweight or 911FF Fusible. I pick it up at least 5 yards when it goes on sale. Watch for more about stabilizers in my upcoming blogs. I will set up a special page when our class does the "stabilizer" class.
  
  
  THINK about the project, THEN reach into the thread drawer and select the right thread, the right needle, and the foot that works best for the project.

Sew, I leave you with this today . . . THINK about the project, THEN reach into the thread drawer and select the right thread, the right needle, and the foot that works best for the project. Who knows? You may find out a dab of stabilizer helps too!

SUPERIOR THREAD - Inventory your thread STASH!!

On the Page called "Patterns & Instructions" I have listed the link for Superior's inventory lists in both PDF and XLS for the insanely anal thread collector. I hope you take a look at it. 

Attached is the link to Superior's downloadable inventory lists for all your SUPERIOR THREADS!!

These are obviously for the truly anal thread lovers...and guess what? I have friends who sit and inventory every spool of thread they have! Sheez...I just go to my cabinet and hope and pray I haven't given the one I want away!  I hope the overly obsessive of you enjoy these spreadsheets and inventory lists! Personally, I want to have a WALL OF THREAD, don't you? I would like to sit down and sew and not have to worry about not having the right thread. Buy one or two spools a month I always say. No one can have too much thread! 

I highly recommend the new Magnifico, Fantastico, and Twist threads. Our class has been using them with wonderful success on many different machines, even one old Singer (but don't worry, she finally bought a new Pfaff! She said now she feels like she has been sewing on a covered wagon. What a difference a new machine makes.)

I also recommend the So Fine #40 variegated. It is a polyester that has many of the same colors as King Tut. If you are ever doubtful about what color thread to use on a particular quilt, So Fine #40 makes a great piecing thread. It is a 40 wt., but not too fat to piece with. 

You can use our inventory list to keep track of your personal thread supply, business inventory, or to plan for your next order.

In order to open the files, you will need software to open Microsoft Excel files or Adobe PDF files.

Next Class is how to use FEET!

Our next class is going to  be how to use sewing feet. We are going to do a sampler using all the regular feet that come with a machine. We will also use a few specialty feet. This is going to be a great class because I have learned so much about these feet I can hardly wait to share with the class.

One of the most important things about sewing a SAMPLER with many different stitches and decorative stitches is what THREAD to use for each. When going to our decorative stitches, we often just leave the thread we were sewing with in the machine and then complain if the machine's stitches weren't as pretty as we thought they should be....it's the thread you are using that makes or breaks the beauty of all our decorative stitches!!

If you are going to use a "pictograph," or a heavily filled-in stitch, you want to adjust your thread accordingly. Remember, all decorative stitches are EMBROIDERY stitches just like the big fancy embroidery machines! Think about the size and the type of thread you want for a decorative stitch and then remember to stitch it out on a Thread Journal first. The thing you need to think about on the Thread Journal (please read my page entitled THREAD JOURNALING) is that is backed with Pellon stabilizer. We forget when pushing the button to use a decorative stitch that we have to remember to stabilize it. There are many ways to do this, and I will put some of these techniques in my THREAD JOURNAL page.

So, I will let you know how the  FEET CLASS goes. Just remember to adjust the type and size of thread to the decorative stitch being used and don't forget to stabilize it! The machine embroidery sewer wouldn't think of NOT using stabilizer, yet us quilters forget it all the time. Give it a try and let me know what you think of using a #50, #40, or even a #30 thread on certain decorative stitches. Often we use decorative stitches on bindings and children's quilts, go to your thread stash! Play with the threads you have and pick the decorative stitch that seems to go with that quilt. 

TaTaForNow - Shawnee

My First Quilt - Every Quilt Tells a Story!

My first quilt was made in 1973 with my Gramma. Gramma was a seamstress from England who taught me to sew when I was a very little (can’t remember how old I was, she gave me a needle, thread, some scraps, and taught me to make doll clothes.). Since I was too young to use her Featherweight, she taught me to hand sew everything. To this day, I still know how to hand stitch in many different styles with perfect hand stitching. I always wanted to please my Gramma, so I worked hard and ripped a lot of unsatisfactory stitches out. 

In 1973, after making my clothes for Jr. High and High School Gramma said I was ready for my FIRST quilt! Since Gramma grew up in England, and then raised her family during the Depression, Gramma taught me how to use all my scraps. She never wanted any fabric (or thread) to go to waste. It was not a quilt from a pattern, just blocks sewed into rows and hand-tied. Each block was either from one of my dresses, or Gramma’s. It is not beautiful, nor perfect, but it stays in my bedroom reminding me of all the visits that turned into sewing lessons with my Gramma. 

We would sit and stitch by hand or on her Featherweight while she told me all the stories about life as a little girl in England and what a pain in the neck my mother was when she was little. Her patience, her dumb cat named “Butter” (who wouldn’t stay off whatever we were working on), coupled with tea, biscuits (they were cookies to me), and stories are my precious memories of quilting and sewing with Gramma. That ugly little quilt is a treasure of memories that makes it a priceless work of art, albeit not perfect. 

I learned to sew first, then to quilt, and I haven’t stopped quilting since! I am now a quilt teacher and lecturer and I always give credit to Gramma when I teach students how to hand-stitch a binding with perfect stitches. My ugly first quilt reminds me constantly of Gramma's abundant knowledge and even more abundant patience. She always encouraged me to keep sewing (even though I only had boys). She never criticized my work, but always found something positive to say about it while telling me how to make my next project better. To this day I encourage my students to finish their project, even if it's not perfect - just try to make the next one a little better. My ugly first quilt keeps Gramma close, she, who taught me to love sewing, quilting, thread, stories, cookies, and tea!  But, oh, how I really LOVE THREAD!!! 

Cotton vs. Polyester - What's wrong with cotton thread?

We began Thrilling Threads' classes 3 years ago with the blessing of Superior Threads. I figured we would cover all the threads in about 6 months . . . well, little did I realize there were so many projects waiting for us as well as our friends at Superior introducing more new threads. This combination has kept us going for 3 years, and we still have more projects waiting!

Most of the projects at our Thrilling Threads classes are challenges. We challenge ourselves to come up with something that exercises our use of thread. Thread is the key to revisiting all kinds of projects, using the proper or sometimes, new thread. It has been so much fun!

The most common "thread" issue I have had to deal with as an instructor is reminding sewers to think about the project they are beginning. All are quilters, and as such, they instinctively reach for their good old cotton thread. Not that there is anything wrong with cotton thread, we all use a lot of it. But when you have spent years using cotton thread for quilting, it is a hard to get out of that rut. 

The worst thing I would see back in my shop owner days, was walking into a purse class and seeing all the sewers gleefully sewing a challenging handbag or tote with cotton thread. Can you tell me what is so wrong with that? Use polyester! It is stronger and you can match those wonderful colors. Why would anyone start an item that is designed to be schlepped, tugged, pulled, tossed, or 'over-loaded' without using the strongest thread? Why? Because many sewers simply grab a spool of thread without giving a thought about how the project will be used. Each sewer would answer, "It's what I always use." Not giving a thought to the difference between the two threads...

So - my point is: STOP! Think about the project before beginning it. What is it going to be used for? Do you need shiny thread, strong thread, fat thread, fine thread, cotton, or invisible thread? This means retraining our thought process as sewers or quilters not to just reach for the same old thread.

That reminds me, when is thread too old? Why do we use cotton thread for quilting? Will polyester ruin your quilt? These questions go on and on. I will endeavor to answer them all in upcoming blogs.

Ta Ta For Now - Shawnee

How to copyright a Quilt Pattern

 (reprinted from eHow.com)

Discover the expert in you.

How to Copyright Sewing Patterns

By David Sarokin, eHow Contributor

Copyright law protects creative works that are put into material form. You can use copyright to protect written works such as books, poems, musical scores and essays, as well as visual works like paintings and photographs. You can also copyright a work that is a combination of text and illustrations, such as a sewing pattern. Although no action is necessary to copyright your works, you can achieve an extra degree of legal protection by registering a copyright for your sewing pattern.

Difficulty:

 

Easy

Instructions

Things You'll Need

• Sewing pattern

1. • 1
     Do nothing. Copyright protection is automatic as soon as a creative work is put into material form. A pattern idea in your head is not protected by copyright, but as soon as you commit the pattern to paper, or draw it on a computer screen, it is automatically protected.
   • 2
     Register a copyright for your sewing pattern online at the Electronic Copyright Office web page of the U.S. Copyright Office.

     You can achieve an extra level of copyright protection by registering your sewing pattern and creating a formal record of its existence and authorship. You register by providing your basic identification information and uploading an image file of your work. Online registration costs $35.
   • 3
     Add a copyright notice to your sewing pattern. In a readily visible location, add a C-in-a-circle copyright symbol, the date the work was first created, and the author's name. This copyright notice lets people know that your work is protected by copyright.

Tips & Warnings

• The Copyright Office publication, "Copyright Registration for Works of the Visual Arts," specifically mentions sewing patterns as works that are protected by copyright.

Resources

• U.S. Copyright Office: FAQs

The Great Rolled Bowl Class

What we learned about those wily "rolled bowls"

Last class was going to be very easy. We were going to make a few simple, small rolled bowls. Well, we found out there is a LOT more to making a rolled bowl than we recalled from First Grade clay making. First, I discovered there are different size fabric strips depending on how you wrap the cord. Second, discovered there was more than one way to wrap the cord. Third, there are many different kinds of cord that can be used, and fourth and last, what about the THREAD? So, once I realized all of the variables that could influence one little bowl class, I forged on to try and get at least one student to complete at least one bowl. The lesson I learned about variables in a project is the same one that slaps me every time. They all came out to play in one class. Oh boy!

I am going to do a page on the the rolled bowls. Actually the pattern is taking a little of this and a little of that, depending on different looks. They all came out. Everyone loved the bowls and I recommend the project for anyone looking for something different to do this summer. The bowls make great little gifts and you can use pretty ugly fabric that turns out cute. Just go to the page, "Rolled Bowls."